Along the way I made it a goal to get the best gas mileage possible. Just coincidentally, I ran across this list which validated the very steps I took to save gas. It was written by shop owner Pam Oakes of Pam’s Motor City in Florida. She is also the author of “The Lady Mechanic’s Total Car Care for the Clueless: A Manual for Car Owners.”

1.) Make a quarter tank your new “empty.” Fuel going below a quarter tank is not healthy for the fuel pump. Fuel pumps generate heat. Keeping your tank above one-quarter full keeps the pump submerged. Liquid fuel is better at transferring heat than air. Keep your fuel pump happy, your vehicle’s fuel economy happy, and your bank account happy by keeping fuel in your vehicle. Not including the price of a new fuel pump module (ranging between $400 to $1,100), if you keep your vehicle below a quarter tank, you run the risk of turning a troublesome situation into an emergency.

2.) Use your cruise control. It is natural for an individual to flex — even slightly — their ankle while it rests on the accelerator. With today’s vehicles, the onboard sensors and actuators, measuring in increments of hundredths of a volt, will notice this increase-decrease demand on the pedal and the demand for fuel as well. Your cruise control keeps this at a steady level, therefore increasing fuel economy. You can even use your cruise while driving through your neighborhood, on expressways, etc.

3.) Use “top-tier” fuel. Six automotive manufacturers (GM, Toyota, BMW, Honda, Audi and VW) requested a specific fuel blend so their vehicles operate at peak mpg efficiency with the least amount of emission. Several complied. It’s not the octane grade, but it is based on the formula of the fuel that makes your vehicle run its best. Using “top-tier” fuel will help maximize your fuel mpg. Even if it’s a 3 mpg improvement (based on a fuel tank of 15 gallons), based on the savings, you will get a free tank of gas every five to six tank fills (on paper, that is).

4.) Monitor your tire pressure. This is not only key to your fuel economy, but for steering and braking as well. Each vehicle has its specific tire pressure on the inside driver’s door jamb. Do not go off of the maximum tire pressure on the side of the tire! This maximum tire pressure designation is stamped on the sidewall because the tire will fit many different makes and models, with many different tire pressure designations. Just a 3 to 4 psi drop will significantly decrease your fuel economy 2 to 3 mpg (depending upon make and model).

5) Clean your car! Clean out your car’s cab and trunk of books, newspapers, golf clubs, bowling balls, etc. It may not seem like a lot of weight to you, but your car knows different. All those items add up to more weight that the car is hauling around town. More weight equals more fuel consumed. Plus, it increases your mechanical wear and tear, too.

More about my Chevy adventures next time!

Paul made it his goal to get the best mileage possible during his service trip to beautiful North Carolina.

In my last installment we began discussing what to tell a customer who wants to know if his or her vehicle is worth fixing. This was prompted by an excellent email exchange that went on between me and some of my independent car repair shop owner friends. Here’s a summary of that lively exchange:

“How should I respond when a customer asks whether the vehicle is worth investing the money for repairs?”

We began by agreeing that no technician can answer that question for a customer. It’s our job just to provide them with a thorough inspection, all the facts, and let them decide. The vehicle inspection sheet should include what looks great and what may be needed in a year or two, or in the next 20,000 miles.

It’s especially important not to insult a customer who is driving something we would consider nearly worn out, as it may seem like a part of their family!

Start by researching the current value of the vehicle on a website like kbb.com or edmunds.com. Would the needed repairs increase the trade-in value of the vehicle? As always, it’s vital we are honest with the customer and imagine the customer is a family member asking for advice.

A technician should ask customer the following questions:

• Do you like this vehicle? If there is a sentimental attachment it changes everything.
• Does it meet your current transportation needs?
• What are your driving habits? How many miles do you drive in a week?
• Before this repair came up, how long were you planning to keep the vehicle?
• Do you think you could find another vehicle that would be in as good a condition and pass inspection for the amount of the repair investment?
• How much are you willing to spend in a year’s time to keep any car on the road?
• Is the vehicle paid for? If you put $1,000 into a car that lasts two years longer, that makes the monthly cost $40—substantially less than a new car payment.
• How important is timing to you? We can take care of this repair just a day or two. Searching for another car may take days or even weeks.

One thing that some customers forget is that getting another vehicle does not mean all repair issues will disappear. This vehicle is known to them. Another vehicle would have an unknown history and the possibility of other repair expense.

Of course, if our customer decides the repair expense for the current vehicle is not worth it, we explain our pre-purchase car inspection program, or “car physical.” We highly recommend this complete inspection which saves our customers from obvious lemons, and gives them information to negotiate a fair price for another vehicle.

Paul and Polly celebrate 200,000 miles on the Caddy--literally the "vehicle" that brought them together!

By Paul Rupp, New Concept Auto Service

Last week I was involved in an enlightening dialogue with some of my peers about what to do when a customer asks if his or her vehicle is worth fixing. This brought back fond memories because this very situation was the thing that led to me having the courage to ask my wife out on our first date. Polly’s champagne ’91 Cadillac Sedan Deville limped in to New Concept Auto Service in the spring of 2004 with a noisy and leaking water pump. I actually heard the moaning water pump over her cell phone.

Before I tell you her story, let me explain a few things about individual customer personalities and making hard choices about giving up a vehicle.

The reasons for fixing what you have versus replacing with something new can go very deep and require a lot of thought. You really have to look at the pros and cons and weigh everything out. There are economic as well as emotional reasons. I believe one should purchase a good quality vehicle and maintain it until they discontinue the parts, but of course I fix cars for a living and have parts and ASE Master Techs at my disposal.

There are five types of individuals and associated personalities when it comes to owning and operating a car. Some folks like that new car look and smell every three years along with the lease payment and interest. Then there is the loyalist, a person who can’t picture driving anything but their 10- to 15-year-old car. The loyalist would almost rather walk than drive a loaner (makes you wonder what they drove before).

Some folks I call minimalists barely maintain their cars and trade them in just before 60,000 miles to avoid the cost for maintenance. The poor car becomes the next guy’s misfortune. I think these guys should walk for a while to regain the appreciation of having the privilege to drive.

Then there is the breakdown customer who usually comes in via the tow truck. These folks can be good customers. They need transportation and usually have just enough money to get the car drivable again.

Then there is the scheduled maintenance customer, who does everything on time, never gets towed, never has a major breakdown and always gets a Christmas card. They all exist and I have learned you can’t guess which type they are until you get to know them a little. Some can even be converted once they see the light; some never learn.

Polly was a periodic scheduled maintenance customer and an extreme loyalist. While her Caddy was in the bay we removed one of the spark plugs to inspect for condition as we do with all first visit customers. The spark plug had a green tint to it. Now there is only one source of green as you may or may not know—antifreeze. That, coupled with the signs of crusty green seepage from the head gasket, told us the engine had gotten hot or the coolant has been degraded for some time. Either way the engine’s life span was nearing its end.

The car was in excellent shape externally considering it had logged 150,000 miles. The body was dent free and had been garaged most of its life. My original inclination was to suggest Polly at least think about a new or different car. When a customer cannot decide on a big decision like this, I have learned to ask simple questions: “Do you like your car?” and, “Is your car paid for?” Surprisingly, the answer is yes most of the time, however some people absolutely hate their car and have been waiting years for someone to just ask them.

Polly immediately defended her Caddy. It became apparent the car meant much more to her than mere transportation. It was a part of the family. Those emotions I mentioned earlier were starting to surface.

See, I think a good car is like a good pair of shoes. They fit just right and you really got a good deal when you bought them years ago. You will only use the best quality shoe laces when needed. You clean them carefully with an old cotton rag and some polish. They are so comfortable you have fallen asleep in them at one time or another. The shoes seem to make you walk faster with more agility and make you feel young again. You would much rather resole the shoes than replace them.

A good car can be the same way. It will capture you in the way it starts right up after a few cranks, or the way it quickly accelerates no matter what type of fuel you put in it. This car always looks new and seems to run better after you wash it. And you look good in it as you drive past the store front windows and see your reflection. The seat is always warm and mirrors are just big enough. A good car will seem to heal itself once in awhile when it acts up if you simply pet the dash a little.

This is what I’m talking about. Polly was attached and once I realized she had made her decision long ago I knew my job was to make the proper recommendations and proceed. I told her I would replace the water pump and keep an eye on her car over the next few months to see if anything else big cropped up. (A bonus for me was more time to work up my courage to ask her out!)

Overall the car needed a few items. The brakes were nearly used up. The engine had a rough idle and poor acceleration. The floor mats were worn out and the wipers skipped around. Other than that, the transmission shifted well, the tires and exhaust were in good shape, and all the locks, windows and seats worked. The alternator had been replaced with a quality reman unit at one time and was performing well.

This Deville had a big chrome bumper, a large trunk, full size spare tire and lots of leg room, not to mention class. The engine valve cover proudly said V8. This was the kind of car that looks good with whitewalls. The horn still had vocal cords loud enough and with just the right pitch to help a squirrel decide which way to go at 50 yards.

I got on the Internet and read four or five articles and was surprised to find everyone liked them. The articles also reaffirmed the fact the fuel injectors were not designed well, and there were remanufactured Bosch type injectors which after a little testing revealed the cause for the poor acceleration and misfire at idle.

Over the next few months the engine began to degrade. The next symptoms were consistent misfires due to fouled spark plugs and a random check engine light. The engine began to ingest coolant with no sign of external escape. The end was near. The final straw was the oil gushing from the rear main seal area like a stuck pig. A noticeable lower end knocking noise began as surely as the connecting rods were trying to escape the confines of the engine block.

The expired engine was replaced with a Jasper remanufactured engine. The replacement process went well. We resealed the transmission and replaced the original heater hoses and radiator with the new engine cooler in it. The old, expired engine went back to Jasper as a core to be rebuilt to bring the next ’91 Caddy back to life. Last fall the Caddy (definitely a family member) turned over 200,000 miles as my wife and I were driving down I-70 in mid-Missouri on the way home to Overland Park.

Fix or replace? Well, it just is not that easy. Next time I’ll summarize some key points in the decision process for those who are trying to determine the next step in their relationship with a vehicle.

This month we are happy to announce the addition of another member to the New Concept Auto Service staff. Shaun Morris is a local guy, and studied automotive technology at the Kansas City Kansas Community College Technical Education Center. He comes to us from a large, corporate repair shop and is enjoying the smaller, family atmosphere here. As a young father, Shaun brings a lot of energy and enthusiasm to our team!

We understand you have experience with a large repair facility. How is that different than working at an independent repair shop like New Concept?

At an independent shop like this you only have one boss to answer to. At a corporate place sometimes I had to deal with four or five different bosses. Here I’m better able to focus more on my job—fixing cars—and less on business politics.

So is Paul a tough boss?

No, not tough, he just expects stuff to get done the right way. In lots of ways I kind of get to be my own boss as long as I maintain a high standard of quality.

What are some of your professional goals for the next five years?

I am working on my ASE Master Tech certification and with that I’ll be able to make more money!

How do you feel you make a positive contribution to vehicle safety and reliability?

When I fix a problem right the first time, and also make sure the customer knows what needs to be fixed and the possible dangers, I make the roads safer for the customer and also for my family.

What’s the strangest thing that’s happened to you while working as a technician?

Actually the last few weeks have been strange because I have a boss that cares about how I’m doing. That’s a new experience for me.

What’s one thing that would surprise people about you?

I like bowling!

As a young dad, what’s the biggest challenge you face in parenting?

Making enough money to support my family and keeping up with the latest tools to support my job.

Your favorite movie?

Of course it’s a car movie–Fast and Furious 5!

Shaun always has a smile at the ready, even when he's hard at work.

When assessing the need for an oil plug or pan repair, we often offer to show the customer the situation in the shop. One time the customer wanted to pop the plug loose himself as he cussed a little. We let him, and he got a big grin on his face as it popped loose. At that point he was OK with us moving forward with the repair.

Some customers want to go back to the previous oil change shop and have them fix the damage. I can say that nearly every time we have fixed the problem by simply chasing the threads and using a new drain plug. I can think of about five times in 10 years where we needed to replace a sheet metal drain pan and this happens mostly on older Hondas. In one case with an expensive aluminum pan we removed the pan, welded the aluminum back up and redrilled and threaded a new hole. In another case we acquired a used oil pan from a salvage yard. Due to issues with keeping the hole centered, we don’t recommend trying to cut bigger threads in place. That technique also weakens the surrounding material.

In the case where the drain plug head is rounded off and we cannot loosen it with a vise grip, we will simply weld a nut to the head of the plug and wrench it off that way.

As Overland Park’s go-to source for auto repair, we always replace the drain plug washer during an oil change. We stock 30 different styles of aluminum and copper washers and o-rings for the newer models. Our policy also states the drain plug can only be tightened by hand and not with an air or electric tool. (My guess is that most quick-oil-change places don’t abide by that rule.) We also rinse off the oil mess from the filter and the drain plug.

With these policies in place I can gratefully say we have never had to replace an engine due to a leaking oil drain plug we created. Our policies work!

Our AAA regional representative recently engaged New Concept Auto Service and some other local shops in a conversation about policies regarding cross-threaded oil pan drain plugs. A cross-threaded drain plug is when the threads on the plug and pan are not aligned, causing a bad fit. It just gets worse as it is tightened.

It seems like such a minuscule part to create such a firestorm of policy, but keep in mind one tiny leaking plug can drain a whole pan of oil and create need for a multi-thousand-dollar engine repair or replacement.

There are several scenarios for assessing a damaged oil pan or drain plug threads, including the rare instance of a drain plug cross-thread. Other times the drain plug is over-tightened and has pulled or damaged the threads on the plug and requires a new plug. In this instance, if the pan threads are only slightly damaged they may only need to be chased or rethreaded. Sometimes the pan has to be replaced or over-drilled if possible. And sometimes the head of the drain plug is rounded off. This happens when the wrong sized wrench or socket is used for tightening by an inexperienced person.

The key is to get our customers involved before it will cost them any money. It is nearly impossible to convince a customer they need a new oil pan during an oil change and have them believe it was not due to something we did wrong. That is certainly understandable. Customers are almost always OK with the cost of a new drain plug when we show them the old, damaged one. Most always they are simply stripped or about to strip from over-tightening. Sometimes they are just finger tight! Customers are usually grateful that they have avoided seeing the dreaded oil light appear while driving down the Overland Parkway!

At New Concept, we use written procedures for every single thing that happens in the shop. If you don’t believe that, just ask the guys next time you come in and they will probably roll their eyes and say, “Yes, Paul is a procedure guy.”

Our procedure for assessing the oil plug situation goes like this: We simply try to pop the plug loose with a long wrench. If it begins to get tight as it comes out, we know it will need at least a thread chase and a new plug. We get the customer involved at the point the plug starts to get tight, knowing we can likely just tighten it back up. We actually offer to show the customer the situation in the shop.

I’m out of time today, but check back next week for a funny customer story, and our fail-safe procedure to ensure the oil keeping your engine running stays put.

The Mechanics Ear is New Concept Auto Service's secret weapon for accurate noise diagnosis.

By Paul Rupp, New Concept Auto Service

I love noises and cars, so I drive as many as I can.  The brain and its ability to recall information is amazing.  Once you hear the same type of car noise three or four times, it gets registered in a database deep inside your head.  Pretty soon you begin to recognize a familiar noise from a car as it drives by on the street.  Suddenly you will find yourself standing on a sidewalk, mumbling “lower ball joint.”

A good noise technician uses a combination of logic, common sense and experience.  As Overland Park’s “go-to source for auto repair,” our New Concept techs have all three! Logic comes into play when you have to diagnose the noise by process of elimination.  Common sense is required when you begin to over think the noise.  Experience comes from driving lots of different cars under different conditions.

We also have a secret weapon–an electronic device called a Mechanics Ear that does an incredible job locating the source of various car noises.  The device consists of a transmitter, a wireless receiver and a set of earphones.  There are four numbered transmitters that clip onto anything using a strong spring.  The receiver comes with four numbered buttons (channels with different frequencies) matching the transmitters so you can listen to them, one at a time, and correlate their position.  There is also a volume knob.  We mainly use the Mechanics Ear to diagnose drivetrain, suspension and brake-type noises, or situations where the car needs to be in motion or going over bumps to reproduce the noise.

The most common area where we use this device is for wheel bearing-type noises, which can be very deceiving.  Front wheel bearings go bad more often than rear ones; since the engine adds weight, the wheels are turning left to right and the front wheel is the first thing to hit a pothole.  We simply clip a transmitter to something solid like the spindle at each corner of the car and go for a drive.  With the sound amplified, it is usually pretty obvious which one is the culprit.  Wheel bearings get loose as they wear and you can hear the subtle change in humming as you lightly swerve from side to side.  After replacement we verify the noise is gone on the same test drive route.

Diagnosing suspension squeaks is also a good use for the Mechanics Ear.  Many times a car will squawk when the suspension goes over bumps.  These noises can come from ball joints, sway bar end links and/or frame mount bushings.  Simply clip the transmitters to various points, go for a drive, and voila!  In some cases we will disconnect the sway bar links from the car to see if the noise goes away.  You can also spray a little temporary lubricant onto to a suspect frame mount bushing to determine the source.

Differentials are where the axles, various bearings, and ring and pinion gears are housed.  Many times a howling noise from the rear of a pickup will be inside the differential, but very hard to pinpoint.  Mounting the transmitters on both ends near the wheels and again in the center where the ring and pinion are located, will tell you which axle to focus on.  If you get a humming noise when your SUV or truck is put into 4×4, then once again, we can quickly determine whether to investigate the transfer case or the front differential.

Brake squeaks are always an annoyance and usually occur because something is moving back and forth rapidly, and there is no lubricant where it should be.  Warped brake rotors often cause this movement even if you cannot feel it when stopping.  Our technicians either take the brake system apart and start measuring every part at each corner of the car, or use the Mechanics Ear to find the location and inspect there.  The device is so sensitive; you can even hear the brake pads touching the rotors when you apply the brakes.  You can hear clicking noises coming from cracks or hot spots in rotors.  Once I heard a dull tapping noise and found nothing wrong with the brakes, but finally noticed a nail in the tire with a big head on it.  What a triumphant diagnosing moment that was!

Transmission fluid does wear out.  New fluid has a pink color to it and the old fluid will appear brown and emit a slight burnt smell.  The color and smell are from the normal wear of the many clutch discs located in the heart of a transmission.

Heat is the worst thing for transmission fluid—even the relatively mild temperatures here in good old Overland Park, Kansas, can cause problems.  Elevated temperatures cause the fluid to lose its ability to withstand pressure when and where needed inside the transmission.  This is why you find additional external coolers on many trucks and SUVs.

Transmissions are mostly all built with the same fundamental concepts, and automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is manufactured by fewer petroleum companies than one would think.  ATF base stock is much the same—it is the additives that make the final difference.  With that in mind, we recommend flushing an automatic transmission every 30,000 miles for best life and performance.  Many transmission rebuilding companies recommend flushing on a frequent basis, since they constantly see the results of lack of maintenance.

The flushing procedure is like a blood transfusion.  Fluid is pumped in one end and pulled out the other with a special machine.  The fluid level is also critical and must be set at operating temperature.  Too much fluid causes it to aerate or foam up, and too little will cause slipping, leading to excess heat.  Do-it-yourselfers are finding that many newer transmissions are sealed with no dipstick, so there is no easy way to check the level or even fill it back up.

The bottom line is this: an automatic transmission will easily last more than 200,000 miles if maintained periodically.  Replacing one can cost thousands of dollars.  It is easy to do the math. You can count on us to stay on top of changes in transmissions and their maintenance requirements.

I have been reading up on automatic transmission fluid (ATF) lately and changes are on the horizon.  Twenty years ago, there used to be just three types of ATF—one each for Ford, Chevy and Chrysler—and transmissions only had three speeds.  Today, transmissions have up to six speeds, and run at higher temperatures for better efficiency.  Most automatic transmissions have replaced mechanical parts with electronic solenoids, all with tighter clearances.

There are many more types of ATF to keep track of from manufacturer to manufacturer.  It can get confusing, so a shop needs accurate information.  Incorrect fluid can cause shifting problems and premature wear.  We are careful to use only OEM-supplied information to select the correct type of fluid for each particular vehicle.  We also use either synthetic blends or full synthetic ATF, which are better than mineral-based fluids.

The main difference between types of transmission fluids is in the viscosity and additives.  ATF must resist oxidation and thermal breakdown, and maintain the required viscosity levels at different temperatures.  Viscosity applies to pancake syrup– if you heat it up, it pours easier.  Transmission fluid has to resist getting too runny when hot, yet needs to flow when cold.  The nice thing about synthetic ATF is the viscosity does not change much with temperature, so your transmission works better when cold and does not thin out when hot.

Transmission fluid does wear out, and when that happens it may have a catastrophic effect on your vehicle. Check my blog next week to find out if your car, truck or SUV is at risk.

Last week I had the privilege once again of working the phone bank at Channel 41’s Call for Action free helpline for car repair. I fielded 30 calls alongside eight or nine other local shop owners who donated their expertise.  This time on the phone is not a sales pitch for New Concept Auto Service or any of the local shops. We don’t even identify ourselves, but recommend a AAA-approved shop near the caller’s area.

I feel like I really helped most of the callers.  Some just wanted to talk and vent a little about a shop.  Most people were elderly and drove Buicks and Lincolns.  There was a wide array of questions.  How much would it cost to do this or that (we did not guess at pricing)?  Do I really need to flush my coolant and transmission fluid at 60,000-miles (yes)?  Several had concerns about the engine missing as they drive uphill or accelerate.  Several “crank and no start” customers wondered where they should have their vehicle towed.

One woman called in about her 66 GMC pickup she had restored.  Her throttle was sticking open, making it hard to stop.  After hearing symptoms, I advised her to have a mechanic inspect the carburetor choke.  Surprisingly, she said she just had a new carburetor installed.  Another guy with a one-ton Dodge truck described a unique situation where his park lights would stay on even when the ignition switch was off and the keys were in hand.  As I suggested several parts to inspect, he replied he had replaced them already but to no avail.  It was probably a wire shorted to power somewhere, but I would have enjoyed diagnosing this one in person!

I usually asked if they have a regular shop that they trust.  Sadly most either did very little maintenance or jumped from shop to shop.  A few folks had their favorite shop, but just wanted a second opinion. Hopefully our time on the phone helped these people out and helped make Kansas City roads a little safer this week.